Design and Finishing (Subscription)

$40.00 / month

Complete Design and Finishing education. See a design and break it down to its elements: point, line, and angle. Master elevation and over-direction. Everything you need to know to create, recreate, and communicate any hair design any time. Seven face shapes, four profile types. Straight, wave, frizz, or curls. A multitude of brushes and hot tools. Countless hair products. Make every hair decision with confidence. Take your clients from WHAT I HAVE to WHAT I WANT successfully every time.

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DESIGN

Complete Design Education

When you have mastered the principles of design, you will never need to learn another haircut. Just by seeing it, you will know how to do it. Unlock your creativity and create any design any time — on any head of hair. In less time that you thought possible, and for far less investment, you will have the skills most career and platform artists spend a lifetime learning.

The Principles of Shape

At its heart, any hair design, however complex, comes down to its shape. And shape comes from three elements: point, line, and angle.

When you break it down, the universe is simple. Points mark a change in direction where two lines create an angle. Lines are straight or curved. They travel on the horizontal, vertical, or diagonal. Join a few points together with lines and you’ve got a shape. That’s it. Change just one of those lines and you’ve changed the shape. Powerful stuff!

The principles of shape allow us to express our creativity. They allow us to be exact in the shapes we create. They allow us to go back whenever we want or to take a magazine picture and recreate that shape. And for the first time ever we can communicate to our fellow stylists exactly what we did.

The Principles of Movement

Haircutting is a series of movements. We move the hair up and down to elevate it, we move it to the side to over-direct it, and we move the angle of our fingers in toward the head or out from it to create a cutting angle.

It’s the movements that create graduation in the design.

The Principles of Headform

It’s safe to say that every guest’s head shape is unique. If we had ten different guests with the same hair type and the same hair density and we did exactly the same haircut on each, the finished shapes would all look different due to the variations in their headform.

It’s also safe to say that we have certain things in common, and we can use those common things as reference points.

Knowing the points of reference allows us to think of the perimeter in smaller bites. Breaking the shape down into simpler predictable parts makes balance and consistency much easier to achieve.

The Principles of Graduation

Hair design can be simplified into two haircuts: blunt or graduated. In other words, a hair design is either all one length, or it has some sort of layering.

There are all sorts of names for graduation in the hair: layers, feathering, taper,
square, round, and many others. These terms can be misunderstood, so for clarity we keep it simple and bring them all under one roof: graduation.

The type of graduation we use gives us dramatically difference results, whether it be straight, scooping, swelling, or cutting to the planes of the head.

Hairstyle Analysis

Here’s how you apply the principles to know how to recreate any design you see, even if it’s just a photo. Break any design down into its component parts: point, line, and angle. Recognize graduation easily and accurately. Then recreate the look or modify it to suit any client.

Sectioning

The way you section hair before cutting will have a profound effect on your result. Do you want to modify a style to better suit a client’s wider face shape? Or you might want to maintain volume at the top of the head. Plan for these results right from the start to streamline your process for maximum efficiency and consistency.

The Principles in Action

Work along with Chris Baran as he shows how applying the principles will unlock your creativity in powerful ways.

  • Swelling Graduation with Denyc
  • Scooping Graduation with Janice
  • Planes of the Head with Alexis
  • Finger Angle with Christy

FINISHING

Comprehensive Finishing Education

Seven face shapes, four profile types. Straight, wave, frizz, or curls. A multitude of brushes and hot tools. Countless hair products. When you know the principles of finishing hair, you will make decisions with confidence. Take your clients from WHAT I HAVE to WHAT I WANT successfully every time.

The Principles of Suitability

If we gave the same hairstyle to ten different clients we’d get ten different looks. Similar, but definitely different. Suitability starts with the client’s face shape and profile. Do you want to enhance volume at the top? Do you want to soften a jawline? We can completely change a client’s look without cutting a strand of hair, and with the principles of suitability, we can make a client for life.

The Principles of Heat

Heat is central to finishing hair. From blast-drying to the finest root tong or the most elegant Marcel wave, there is a science and art in where we apply the heat and how much of it we apply. Here we cover everything from dryer nozzles to flat irons. You’ll never look at a crimp iron the same way again.

Brushes

Many people don’t think much about the brushes they use. It turns out the type of brush we use in a given situation can makes a big difference in the result. Do you need control or speed? Do you want volume? Or maybe a high shine? Here’s how you make the right choice.

The Principles of Product

As Sam Villa will tell you, “Product isn’t an option. It’s a necessity.” But in a market of literally thousands of products, how do you decide? Here we look at the properties of the various categories, and how you can quickly make the right choices, and even make some brilliant combinations, to get exactly the control and finish you’re after.

Straight, Wave, Frizz, Whatever You Want.

When you know the principles, you can confidently take your client’s hair from straight, wave, or frizz, to any one of the others, or in any combination. Watch Chris Baran work with four models to create sixteen different styles, opening up infinite possibilities.

  • Sari goes from Straight to Wave, Curl, Frizz, and a polished Straight style
  • Alecsa goes from Wave to Straight, Curl, Frizz, and a gorgeous Marcel Wave
  • Tamara goes from Curly to Straight, Wave, Frizz, and a red carpet combination of Curly techniques
  • Surina goes from Frizz to Straight, Wave, Curl, and a show-stopping Frizz with product, finger curls, and heat tools.